The AW26 Boot Guide: Which Shape to Buy, and How to Wear It

The boots you'll wear most are the ones that go with the trousers you already own. A great pair that doesn't go with your jeans will sit in the wardrobe all winter. So this guide is sorted by shape, with each one paired with the clothes it actually suits.

The AW26 catwalks didn't land on one boot. Slouchy, gathered leather showed up at Chloé, Balenciaga and Dries Van Noten, western boots came back calmer, and toes got pointier again. There's room for whatever you like, as long as it suits what you wear.

Ruched and slouchy boots

This is the shape that came up most in the AW26 round-ups I read: a tall boot where the leg is gathered down around the calf rather than standing up straight. It's softer than a classic tall boot, and the ruching hides the fact that very few legs fit a perfectly straight shaft. Wear them under a midi skirt or a knit dress so only a bit of boot shows, or over straight jeans if you'd rather the boot was the point. Suede is the version I'd go for, in brown, mainly because it looks better a bit scuffed.

If you want a sleeker, straight-leg tall boot instead, the rails in our first cold snap edit cover those.

Flat riding boots

A flat, tall riding boot is the one to buy if you walk everywhere. It's the most practical shape in this guide, and the stirrup straps and buckles some pairs come with make it look smarter than a plain flat boot. They're good with a mini skirt and tights, with a long pleated skirt, or tucked over skinny or straight jeans. Not so good with wide-leg trousers, which bunch at the top of the shaft.

Western boots

Western boots are back, though in a quieter form than the full rodeo version of a few years ago: less fringing, mid-calf rather than knee-high, and in tan, taupe or black. Stylist's AW26 boot round-up puts the trend down to Chloé and Isabel Marant bringing back a bit of boho. I like them under a long floaty dress, where they stop it feeling too sweet, or with bootcut jeans worn over the top so only the pointed toe and heel show. Keep the rest of the outfit simple. A western boot plus a cowboy hat plus a fringed jacket stops being an outfit and starts being a theme.

Pointed ankle boots

Pointed toes are back after years of square and round. A pointed ankle boot with a slim heel is the one to wear with wide-leg trousers or wide jeans, because the toe sticks out from under the hem and stretches the whole leg. It's also the dressiest boot here, so it gets you from work to the office party without a change of shoes. If you can't walk in a stiletto, a kitten heel with the same toe gets you most of the effect.

Chunky Chelsea boots

The chunky Chelsea isn't new, but it's still the boot most people actually wear from October to March: it copes with rain, it goes with everything and it's easy to get on in the dark. It's the boot for jeans, leggings and anything muddy. We've covered them properly (along with lace-ups and wellies) in our bonfire night guide, so I won’t repeat the rail here.

Burgundy boots instead of black

If you're replacing a pair of black boots anyway, think about burgundy. It's the colour that keeps coming up in this season's boot round-ups, and it works with everything black does (denim, grey, camel, cream) while looking like you thought about it. It works in any of the shapes above. A glossy burgundy knee boot with a grey knit dress is the easy version.

Boots from the brands we cover

Prefer to shop one brand? We’ve done separate guides to Carvela, Dune London, Jones Bootmaker, Hush Puppies and Hotter boots, including calf fit and heel heights.

Boot stock moves quickly once the weather turns, and popular sizes go first. If a pair here fits the way you dress, don't wait for the first frost to decide.